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Thanks, I am a photographer, just not a sports one, so this was pretty challenging and I didn’t have the right equipment to do it properly. I just had to go when I heard about this swell though, this is the biggest it’s been the whole time I lived in Tahiti, all the bigwigs were flying in from across the globe, private jets flying over the pass to check out the break and everything, it was crazy.
I also went a few days before this when it was even bigger and I ended up high-fiving Laird Hamilton as he was surfing out haha, the guy that was driving the boat that day was much more reckless than the one I had on the day I took this pic, I seriously thought we were going to get caught a couple times.
This was one of my most awe-inspiring interactions with nature no doubt.